Stonehaven Cottage offers a perfect combination of a rustic yet homely and beautifully appointed farm cottage for two, complete with a very well equipped kitchen, and a few priceless little surprises. Each of the four cottages on the property offers a farm or mountain setting, unobstructed mountain views, its own pool, and complete privacy from all the others. A perfect place to unwind & do very little – just what we needed! Pets are welcome too.

From there we drove to Paternoster where we treated ourselves to two nights at the beautiful Paternoster Dunes Boutique Guesthouse. We don’t usually do the boutique thing, but this was a special occasion, and what a good choice we made! http://www.paternosterdunes.co.za Deon and Gavin were consummate hosts in this idyllic beachside retreat, and we loved it, as did all the other guests, both South African and from elsewhere, whom we met.

Our hosts enthusiastically assisted in making recommendations and reservations for our two dinners out, the first at the Noisy Oyster and the second at Gaaitjie, both of which were outstanding. We had already enjoyed a few great meals out at the Voorstrand restaurant on previous visits to Paternoster, and were dying to give the others a try.

Breakfast at Dunes was quite a food experience in itself! No greasy egg & bacon or typical continental options here, but instead a healthy, generous, beautifully plated meal in its own right. I’d heard about this before, from a fellow tourist guide who had arranged for her guests staying at Dunes to have dinner at another guesthouse with its own well-known restaurant. Her guests had high expectations and were somewhat disappointed, especially when they had a superior meal for breakfast at Dunes the next morning, and wondered how their dinner might have been! (Dinner is available on request, subject to numbers, I gather.)

Just before leaving town I popped into another guesthouse I’d heard about, to have a look: Oyster Catcher’s Haven. http://www.oystercatchershaven.com Compared to the more colourful, contemporary look & feel of Paternoster Dunes, this had a more old-world air about it, resplendent with antiques, and with some Asian touches, but not overdone or cluttered, and indeed full of air and light, and sweeping sea views. How impressive to see a letter of thanks from Madiba on the wall – he spent a few days unwinding here!

Of the guesthouses I’ve visited in Paternoster up to now, the two I’ve described here would probably be my favourites for discerning guests looking for a beach location, a relaxing, comfortable ambiance and outstanding service in the 4 star range, without going for (what I would call) over-the-top 5 star luxury.