The Biscuit Mill Market – Cape Town – a few delicious pictures to make you hungry!

I spent last Saturday at the Biscuit Mill Market – and took some delicious pictures to share with you!!

The Biscuit Mill Market was the first artisenal market in Cape Town which celebrated our small local suppliers of anything from fresh produce to chaucuterie products through to cider, beer & the great art of cocktail making!

This is where you will find Cape Town foodies on a Saturday morning – be warned it gets packed – so go early in order to enjoy anything from fresh oysters through to the wonderful stir fry noodle lady who claims to have the perfect cure for a Saturday morning hangover!!

Note – as locals we go to the markets to eat – not only to shop.  It must be added that we also go to relax, socialize, drink champers/cocktails/artisenal beers and to hang out with our mates.  As such it is a “must include” when visiting Cape Town.

For opening details and details of our other markets check out my full article which covers many of the Cape Town markets

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The Kitchen and a creative revolution in Woodstock Cape Town

Every time I blink, something new opens in Woodstock, a somewhat grungy suburb in Cape Town.  It all seems to have started with the renovation of an old biscuit mill building into a creative/arty small funky shopping centre.  Woodstock boasts some beautiful architecture – which over the years has been allowed to run down as the areas property prices remained depressed.   The opening of the Biscuit Mill shopping centre and the start of the Fresh Goods Market (Cape Town’s first truly foodie market which allows product producers to connect directly with their clients) proved be a huge draw card to the area.   It has been followed by the opening of two of the country’s top art contemporary art galleries in the area - The Goodman Gallery and Michael Stevenson.  Both the Main galleries and the Biscuit Mill have provided a drawcard for other creative shops/galleries/designer furniture stores/delis to open around them, resulting in wonderful hubs of creativity.  The bonus is that they are so close to the city that it makes for a wonderful Saturday morning ramble!  My suggestion would be to start at the Biscuit Mill very early, explore the market, explore the shops and delis around it and then head to the top road in Woodstock to explore the shops around the main galleries. (Note that to visit The Kitchen for lunch you need to go on a weekday!)

Across the road from the  main galleries you will find a little “gem” called The Kitchen. A review in a New York newspaper led to the shop being chosen for lunch by Michelle Obama on her recent visit to Cape Town for lunch with her family and friends.  I thought there might be a picture up of her visit somewhere – but I had a small chuckle when all I could find was a Michelle Obama action doll on a counter!  Read their blog about her visit here – it reflects their excitement and joy of having her visit The Kitchen.

There are a couple of things that strike you as you walk into this spot:

It is small and seems impossibly crowded with nic  knacs on every surface and over most of the wall space

Every counter is covered with food – it is a complete visual assault of delicious dishes everywhere.  There is a really awesome, very creative salad selection in the main fridge window – perfect for anyone who loves fresh goodies for lunch and for vegetarians.  There are also dishes with delicious home cooked meats on top of the counter and a wonderful sweet tooth counter that you can simply select from.

  • The smells hit you as you enter!  It is a mix of great coffee being made, with spices and a hint of sweetness.  Mouthwatering!

Seating in the shop is limited to only about 15 seats. So try and visit before 12h30 to get a seat. People stampede in from the offices in the area from 12h30 onwards – and organized chaos ensues. Luckily most are aiming for a take out lunch – and the clever thing to do would be to call through from the office before going! This shop is also wonderful to stock up for dinner on those lazy nights that you do not feel like cooking. In addition Karen Dudley, the owner, will gladly cater for anything from a small dinner party to a large function.

I loved the place! I loved the vibe and the happy feeling. You can see that this is a team who loves what they are doing and have fun doing it – one of the girls was even dancing behind the counter! I tried to capture it with my camera – but just was not fast enough! I admit to being biased – I love salads – the more creative and interesting the flavours the better – and they had heaps to chose from.

On my last visit I opted for their very interestingly named LOVE SANDWICH.   This sandwich has a little of everything that they have on it – the base is there fresh pesto, followed by their fresh sundried tomato sauce, followed by chunks of delicious chicken, followed by tomato, lettuce, pickles ……………and I missed the end as I went off to pay.  Result – absolutely love at first bite!! I will be back for more.  My only regret is that I forgot to take a photograph of my beautiful sandwich – so will have to return to capture it for you!

THE KITCHEN, 111 Sir Lowry Road, Woodstock.  Open Mon – Fri 08h30 – 16h00  Tel 021 462 2201.

Some pictures of the salads – great value at R40 per plate with a choice of 6 salads!


If you are in the area make sure you also visit the store ASHANTI – they are on the same side of the road as The Kitchen.  This is an interior decor shop where they are making fabrics out of used fabrics and left overs from manufacturing processes.  These bits are woven into a mixture of colours dependent on the off cuts they have – we have bought the cushions and simply love this store!   Address 133 – 135 Sir Lowry Rd.  Tel no 021 461 0367

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Overture Restaurant – a hidden gem in a hidden valley

Ok – so the local Capetonians are reading my headline and saying – it is not so hidden – we have found it!!  And no doubt many others have too, as it has consistently been rated as one of the Top 10 restaurants in the country for the last three years!  It however remains one of my personal favourites and I return regularly.

We must however not forget that fellow “foodies” visit us from other parts of the country and the world and it is important that we share our local gems.    Overture is owned by Bertus Basson and Craig Cormack.  Bertus is the head chef in Overture, while Craig looks after the other joint restaurant that they own - Sophia’s on Morgenster estate.  The drive from Cape Town to overture only takes about 40 minutes – and it transports you to another world!

Overture would work even if the food was lousy!   The restaurant is on a wine estate called Hidden Valley – which is located on top of a mountain.  The restaurant and cellar boast amazing panoramic views of the valley.  The building itself is worth visiting as it is a wonderful example of modern architecture and is made from local stone.

But the food is anything but lousy.  The menu is presented as a tasting menu and relies on seasonal fresh produce for inspiration.  It must be quite a challenge to change the menu daily in any kitchen.  However, one can tell that Bertus and his team thrive on it as no day is the same, they are all allowed to play with flavour combinations and to come up with inspired creations.   Hallmarks of all of the dishes is a basis in simplicity in order to not lose the flavours of the ingredients.  Another consistent trade mark is how beautifully each dish is plated.  You can tell that a lot of thought goes into presentation.  This is combined with a very knowledgeable service team that are unobtrusive and make sure that your every wish is catered for. In addition Bertus’s passion for great ingredients shines through – everytime he finds a new source of fresh ingredients in the area – we have a half an hour chat about it!  He is always looking and recently has started to use organic vegetables from Spier wine estate around the corner from the restaurant.  As a result of his conscientious sourcing, the flavours are enhanced in every dish presented.  I would highly recommend that you do the pairing of the wines to each dish.  This way you get to experience a food and wine journey while you are there.  Make sure you take a group of friends – this way you can get to experience and taste most of the menu.   As such – try to chose friends that are foodies and love to share!

It is really important for you to know that this experience cannot be rushed.  As locals we love to go to places where we can spend the whole afternoon relaxing, enjoying the view, eating, drinking and laughing with our friends.  So whatever you do, do not make plans for the afternoon!

However, you can make plans for the morning!  You are in an extremely good wine region, and it would almost be a sin if you did not plan to do some wine tasting in the morning! Bare in mind that you will be doing a food and wine experience for the afternoon – so despite how good the wine is in the morning – keep trying to repeat to yourself “Spit – do not swallow!”  Recommendations for the morning would include: Rust-en-Vrede which is at the bottom of the mountain pass, Ernie Els Wines which is 2/3 up the mountain pass and Uva Mira Estate which is just past Overture.   Rust en Vrede boast one of the best red blends in the country called the estate wine – this has been rated many times by US Wine Spectator magazine as one of the best 100 wines in the world.  Ernie Els is also excellent for reds and red blends – they win a 5* rating in the John Platters wine guide every year.  Uva Mira is well known for its chardonnay – however it is so popular that it is rarely available for tasting as it sells out almost as it is released each year.  But despite the fact that you may not get to taste the chardonnay – a visit to Uva Mira is worth it for the views – it is an amazing drive through to the tasting room.  I think it is the prettiest estate in the Stellenbosch region.  The views extend to the ocean.  Make sure you pop in to check this one out!

Overture Restaurant is located on Hidden Valley Wine Estate, Stellenbosch.  Click here for a map and directions. To book call +27 21 880 2721   or e-mail: info@dineatoverture.co.za  Note that the secret is out!! Book well in advance for November – end Feb.  

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African Relish – a cooking school in a foodie village called Prince Albert

This is a “must” include in a visit to South Africa by any foodies – yes – when you look at the map – it does appear that this little town is in the middle of nowhere – but look more closely and you will see that a visit works well with experiencing the Garden Route area at the same time.

The garden route is famous for it beauty, its mountains, its forests, its adrenaline activities – but to me as a foodie – it rocks for its oysters,  little characterful restaurants like Emily Moon and my favourite little spot – Ile de Pain – a little bakery in Plett where the Belgium husband bakes the breads and his local wife makes delicious creations from it!

Prince Albert is a small village that quite simply loves food!   There are all sorts of interesting characters, food products, fresh produce and to top it off – it has a wonderful cooking school called African Relish.  Click here to go to the African Relish website.  

Some upcoming courses to whet your appetite:

They have a great line up of visiting chefs and personalities who will be dazzling and delighting at African Relish over the next few months.

9 – 11 September – Reuben Riffel makes magic with his creative flair and spontaneous artistry. (Fully Booked)

7 – 9 October & 14 – 16 October – Preeti Bardolia is our Karoo Spice Girl. She spices up things a bit with some Indian Fusion

21 – 23 October – Sonia Cabano and Michael Olivier join forces to present Relish the Karoo, preserves relishes and wine.

11 – 13 November – Oded Schwartz from Oded’s Kitchen – Presents In Search of Plenty, Jewish food ancient and modern.

18 – 20 November – Amit Raz chef proprietor at Masala Dosa in Cape Town will be presenting Middle Eastern Delights with a few unexpected extras thrown in.

Ps while in the village – make sure you find Lucas – he is producing some of the most delicious hams in the country – and his chilly sauce rocks!!  I must find out where to buy the sauce in Cape Town!

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Mzoli’s – a truly African experience in a township in Cape Town

Mzoli’s is a smash hit among both the township locals and visitors to the Cape who are keen to get a feel of “real” Africa.   Mzoli’s is an African food BBQ/Braai restaurant located in the heart of Gugulethu township.  In Africa a meal is not complete unless there is meat!  So, whatever you do, do not take your vegetarian friends with you!

Note that in order to get there you have venture into the township areas of Cape Town – so make sure you have a good map with you, directions and Mzoli’s telephone number in case you get lost (although they apparently very seldom answer the phone!).  Most locals will know where it is too – so you can always stop and ask.

Mzoli’s was started in around 2003 by a local entrepreneurial businessman – Mzoli Ngcawuzele – as a butchery.  In our local townships it often works that the butchery will have a facility to cook your meat, and you can then buy your booze next door.  Mzoli has stuck to only doing the meat side of the business and avoided going the full hog and doing the alcohol as well.  This way the surrounding businesses also benefit from their location.  You are also welcome to bring your own alcohol – most of the locals do!

Mzoli’s is great fun – they have a butchery counter where you start your visit – here you select the cuts of meat you wish to have braaied (BBQed).  You also select your starch – a choice of Pap (local maize based porridge made from ground corn), local steamed bread or  Samp & Beans, plus a relish called Chakalaka (a must to include in the mix!).  Your meat is then taken off to be cooked while you firstly head to a local Shabeen (pub) to buy some alcohol to enjoy with lunch – there are a couple to chose from right next door.  Mzoli’s has a designated person to welcome visitors and they will usually spot you looking dazed and confused and show you the ropes.  Our welcome man (Sam) was a suave, gorgeously dressed,  very camp and extremely fun guy.  Sam made sure we felt welcome and knew the ropes of how to get ourselves sorted out and relaxed.  He also very sweetly came to check on us throughout lunch.  Note that Mzoli’s is wonderfully quiet on weekdays and completely crazy on weekends.  People come from far and wide to enjoy the vibe at Mzoli’s, the excellent meat which is rubbed in their secret spice (extremely delicious!!) and to just hang out and socialize.  Locals have warned me that it can take hours for your orders to come out on a weekend – so they recommend going early (this way you will also get a table).  There is live music often on weekends, or a DJ, which adds to the vibe.

Note that this is not a Western restaurant – it is a local township eatery and is rustic. There are outside tables under a tin awning. Here you sit on the street, there are township dogs waiting for scraps, beggars who are also hungry……………so make sure you throw nothing away – there is always someone that will be very happy to enjoy your leftovers!

Overall assessment – I loved it!  I loved our “welcome committee” – he made the visit such fun!!  The food was great – authentic, well prepared and delicious!  I loved people watching while we were there.  I loved the vibe.  I am not sure I would be up to going on a weekend – but I think I should try so that I know what it is like – but waiting up to four hours for food…………..hmmmmm!  Perhaps the solution is to take our own snacks and just join the party!  I would recommend it to those who wish to see what the “vibe” is like at a local township restaurant and to experience the food.  But be warned – this is a rustic local experience!

Opening times:  7 days a week  until around 7pm

My Directions: Take the M10 Heideveld turnoff from the N2 highway (coming form Cape Town).  Continue straight over and then turned RIGHT at the Guguletu sign (this was at the 2nd set of traffic lights).  We then turned at the M18 KLIPFONTEING sight.  Continue straight.  Look for the PURPLE SHOP with a GREEN ROOF.  Turn left here and it is on your left.

OTHER DIRECTIONS FOUND ON THE INTERNET: If you take the Modderdam Rd exit off the N2 out of Cape Town, turn left when you get to Klipfontein Road, Cross the railway line, pass a petrol station on your left, but carry on down Klipfontein.

Turn left at about the second road after the intersection, and you will see Mzoli’s immediately on your left.

For Google Maps – click here (I think this is the safest bet for directions!!)

Telephone numbers: +27 (0)21 638 1355. Mobile +27 (0)78 606 7405

POST NOTE – VAMOS TOURS CAN INCLUDE LUNCH AT MZOLI’S AFTER THEIR TOWNSHIP TOURS.  Click here to visit their website or call them on

Tel: + 27 72 499 7866 or + 27 83 452 1112

Bookings: tours@vamos.co.za

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Foodie Markets in Cape Town

It has been exciting times in Cape Town.  From a city that lacked fresh markets we have gone from zero to a full  360 degrees, and it is now such fun to be a foodie in Cape Town!!  As a foodie you absolutely need to try and plan to be in Cape Town over a weekend, as this is when the activity happens!  Below I am going to give you details of a variety of gourmet markets – but the first prioirties for a first timer need to be:  The Biscuit Mill and then The Stellenbosch Market.  With both of these you need to try and get there early.  The Capetonians (locals!) have fallen in love with the markets, not just for the food, also for the social scene, so make sure you try to get there at 08h30 if you wish to have a place to sit and relax!

The Market at the Old Biscuit Mill -  The building started out as an old biscuit mill and today the lovely old building is home to various eclectic and creative outlets.  This small mall is open from Mon to Sat and on a Saturday is home to one of Cape Town’s best food markets.  Not to be missed in the Mill Complex would be the artisenal coffee roastery,  Oded’s store which is home to all sorts of sauces and pickled items as well as interesting fresh goodies such as hummus and eggplant pates as well as delicious rolls with home made sausages in them (pop in to taste – I almost walk away with half the store each time I visit!), plus walk around to see the interesting creative stores such as Andile’s ceramics.

On a Saturday you have the added bonus of having the market, as well as the stores to explore.  The Biscuit Mill attracts many of the best small artisenal producers from around the greater Cape Town region – goodies range from organic vegetables (buy their baby lettuce leaves – amazing), through to a couple of people doing freshly baked breads, cheeses, chaucuterie meat producers, biltong, cakes,  fresh juices, local ciders, local wines, local champagnes (most sold by the glass!), cocktail makers, live music, lots  and lots of people offering tempting cooked options to sit down and enjoy immediately – from champers & oysters, through to Parma ham pizza’s.  The result is a great combination of the opportunity to taste goodies, buy goodies to take home, buy delicious morsels to sit and relax and eat at large communal tables and the chance to just relax and enjoy a few drinks with your mates.  This was the first food market to open in Cape Town – and Cape Town fell in love with it.  The love affair goes on, and as such this is the most packed market in Cape Town.  It is great for people watching – but if you do not want to get squashed – get there early!

375 Albert Rd Woodstock, Cape Town.  The Market is open from 9am – 14h00 on a SATURDAY.   Click here to visit their website to get directions from the city

Stellenbosch Fresh Goods Market - ok, so this is technically not in Cape Town, it is however only about a 40 minute drive from the city centre and it is an amazing market, set next to vines.  Half the fun is the drive, which is great, the other half is making sure you do not have breakfast before you go and arriving there really hungry!   This market is officially part of the Slow Food Movement which started in Italy.  This movement aims to move away from Fast Food – and simply slow down and enjoy what we have in our communities – a movement away from mass consumption and towards supporting those around us and as such our environment.  I love the concept!  This market is brilliant at show casing the slow food movement, they have exceptionally high quality produce and products -and you are welcome to taste them all before you buy.  Once again this is a market that combines the social element with shopping – one comes to browse, to taste, to shop and then to chose what you would like to eat and head to the tables to relax with a lovely glass of Slow Wine from the region!!   Location: Oude Libertas, Stellenbosch.  Click here for directions.  (Note that they have a second market at Willowbridge – this one is MUCH smaller – and only really worth a visit if you are shopping in the centre anyway.)

HOUT BAY:  There are now two markets in Hout Bay, so if you go on a Saturday, you will be able to visit both of them.

The Bay Food & Wine Market (under La Cuccina) – this little market was started by the owner of La Cuccina restaurant and two other locals.  It aims to make the best of local produce accessible to the people of Hout Bay.  This is a completely foodie little market – there is nothing else to buy other then food!  This little market blew me away.  It is smaller then the big boys at the other markets and is less well known.  The result was a wonderful experience that you could actually chat to all of the vendors.  Each of the offerings were at a really high standard and it made you want to buy buy buy!   Try and track down the pasta guy – he makes his own pasta with Italian flour, I had his pasta pockets stuffed with organic local beef for dinner after the market – it was outstanding!!  There is a wonderful man who has almond twist breads – look for them and taste them!  He has a cheesery in Newlands as well as a little restaurant.  His cheeses were outstanding and also came home with me.  There is also a fish stand that looked amazing – they have a gas cooker set up and you can select prawns or salmon and have it cooked for you right there.  I am coming back to sample it!! I had to hold myself back as we were visiting both Hout Bay markets in one morning.   This market also has a communal seating area – so one is free to buy all sorts of goodies to try, grab a glass of vino and settle in for the morning.  I would highly recommend you try this market as well as the new Hout Bay market if you are in the area.

Every Saturday 09h30 – 14h30 and the last Friday of the month from 5 – 9pm.  Address: under La Cuccina Restaurant, Victoria Mall, Hout Bay.   (Note if you are coming from the direction of Llundudno, this is the first turn off to the left as you come into Hout Bay.  Continue for about a block and you will see this mall on your right hand side).

The Bay Harbour Market (location Hout Bay) – this is a new market that has recently launched.  I can’t believe they chose a name so similar to the other market in Hout Bay – it is sure to cause confusion!!  The location for this market is in the heart of Cape Town’s largest fish factory area and is just off the Hout Bay Harbour.  This is the area where most of Cape Town’s fish is packaged for the local and export market – and oh boy when you park – you do smell it!!!  The market has taken over one of the large fish factories and transformed it into a wonderful space.  This location is great as it is not weather dependent.  The weather in Cape Town is always tricky, in winter we have rain, in summer we often have strong winds.  The market is a fresh take that combines wonderful creative shops with the artisenal “foodie” market trend that is firmly taking over Cape Town.  It is definitely worth putting on your list to explore as there are lots of fun stores, then head into the food section and grab a bite to sit and relax with your friends.  They have a nice little kids corner for playing, wonderful fireplaces for winter to make the place cozy, lovely tables for relaxing and eating – when I was there it was packed though!  So perhaps the advice of going early is good again!  However with them open all weekend, perhaps people will spread themselves out a bit more then the other markets.  At this stage everyone is flocking as it is brand new.   They have done a good job – the setting is nice,  it feels funky and creative inside.  They have bands that play and the whole thing just feels quirky.  I think they will be a success and I do think they will soon be firmly on the “to do” list of those visiting Cape Town – which is their mission!  To summarize, I would highly recommend a visit!

Open: Currently:  Sat 9 – 5pm  & Sun 10 – 4pm   In summer it will also be open on a Friday (5 – 10pm)  For directions click here. Or simply follow your nose – drive to the end of the harbour – when you can’t drive anymore – you are at the market! For the locals – it is next to Fish on the Rocks.

   

Porter Market – Tokai (Southern Suburbs Cape Town) – this is the quintessential family & dog friendly market (must be on leads).  I visited it fairly recently, and as it is an outdoors market,  I got the impression that some of the vendors were not there due to the fact that this is a risky market to commit to for winter, as it is weather dependent.   There is loads of space here for the kids to run around and a wonderful play area (jungle gyms/ropes etc) behind the market stands.  This market had some really nice stands, a few mediocre stands and oddly enough – not a lot of stands to chose from to grab something to eat while you are at the market.   I arrived in good form – starving – and struggled to find an appetizing option of cooked items to sit down and nibble (my usual strategy with all of the other food markets).  I did manage to buy an excellent dry Italian style sausage (Pierre’s Sausage stand) to take home and some interesting yoghurt balls done with chilli.  I think that I will need to revisit this market in summer to get a proper feel for it.  I loved the outdoor rustic setting – it felt like the ultimate hippy shopping spot! It is very relaxed and there are kids and dogs and parents chasing kids!   The drive there is also awesome, you head past the forests and end up on a farm – note that there is a small entrance fee to get in, plus that you will need a few extra rands to tip the car guards once you are inside.  The property is gorgeous and this will work well to visit with friends with kids.  Make sure you try the Moer Koffi (Coffee) – this is the local way of making coffee – and to me it resembles drinking mud!  None-the-less an interesting local food experience!

Open: Saturday 9am – 1pm.  Directions: click here.

  

  

       

 City Bowl Market on Hope  – this is a little market located in the suburb just above town.  We headed down there with a group of friends on a Saturday and had a really enjoyable time.  The market is small and as such it does not take very long to peruse the stands and check out what you would like to buy later and eat now!  I found the fruit and veg stand a nice standard and offering great value for money.  For breakfast I had a slightly adventurous chicken won ton with noodles, while the others had some extremely delicious brownies.  This market is located in a gorgeous old Cape building, and being indoors you are quite safe from the weather.  They have also done the communal seating area and the atmosphere is fun and relaxing.  My opinion is that this is a lovely local market for those in the city to stroll down to and explore.  It is small though!  So don’t expect to do all your grocery shopping here!

Open Saturday from 9am – 2pm.  Location 14 Hope Street Gardens. Directions: click here

EarthFair Food Market – located in Tokai (Southern Suburbs) and the city – St Georges Mall.   Sadly I need to return to get pictures of this market!!   I visited the Tokai branch of this market a few weeks ago and absolutely loved it.  The market is indoors – so once again they are not at risk due to the weather.  Their website explains that they are trying to create a home for artisan food producers and give the small vendors a platform to sell their goods.  They wish to make us more aware of where our food comes from and to provide an experience where people return to do their food shopping on a regular basis.  They skipped out one of my favourite parts!  It has a lovely feel to stay and have a bite to eat.  They have a wonderful organic wine & beer stand that allows you to pair up with a drink that will work with your choice of food.  I really enjoyed my visit – I bought delicious home made fish cakes, extremely delicious olives (repeat purchase as I had come across the vendor elsewhere and knew they would be amazing – they were!).  This is a fun spot to meet up with friends to shop.  Note that they are medium to small in size – but from what I could see – great food vendors – so definitely worth a visit!  I will have to put the town one on my list of places to check out soon!

Opening times: Tokai – Saturday 9am to 2pm &  Wed 3pm – 8pm.  St Georges Mall (City): 11am to 5pm (strange times!! Possibly they are getting people who pop down during the day from their offices to shop???).  Directions and maps: click here.

Blue Bird Garage Food & Goods Market Muizenberg – I finally made it to this little market on Friday!  Who knew it would have to be planned so far in advance to find a friday that I was free!  This little market is more of a social market then a fresh goods market.   People come to meet up with friends, have a few drinks, have dinner and listen to the live music in a very funky slightly bohemian hall.  Most of the stands offer food for sitting and eating there – there are a few that offer odds and ends to take home and a few clothes and bags to be bought too.   The whole place has a slightly hippy feel to it!  Note that if you can get there early, it is a good idea as you will then be able to secure your table for the evening.  After 6pm – the chances of getting a table are slim!  After forcing my Mom to circle the market a few times,  we finally decided to have try the lamb moussaka Egyptian recipe from the Egyptian family who own a restaurant in Muizenberg next to the swimming pool at the beach.  I admit to being swayed by the fact that it had lots and lots of aubergine in it!  I love Aubergine.  It was served with a wonderful garlic paste, a garlic tabbouleh salad, a home made hummus (strangely enough with no garlic in it!) and a saffron rice.  It was as good as it looked and the condiments were amazing – I am going to try and find these guys in Muizenberg next time I pass and stock up!  We also had a Thai curry – which was extremely mild.  This was rounded off with us sharing a baklava (excellent), carrot cake (wonderfully moist) and a soft cheese (from Imhoff Cheesery) with a bagel (no idea what stand it came from – but it was perfection – wonderfully chewy – just how a good bagel should taste!).   Overall it was a lovely evening – I would definitely recommend meeting up with friends there for a fun evening!  Note it is really really small in comparison to many of the other markets.

Open 4pm – 10pm FRIDAYS Address: 39 Albertyn Rd Muizenberg.  Click here for directions from their facebook page.

Constantia Waldorf Night Market – this is held on the last Friday of the month during school term time.  This is a great market to take the full family as there is lots of entertainment for kids and place for them to run around.  It is great fun to cruise around the stands – it has a definite hippy feel to it.  There is also always live music – so it is fun to stay for dinner with the family or friends.    They have a mixture of food stands & arts and crafts.  No alcohol is sold on the premises – but you are welcome to bring a bottle of vino along to enjoy with dinner.  The market starts at 5pm.   Address: Spaanschemat River Rd, Constantia (next door to Peddlars on the Bend which is a well know pub and restaurant)

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Kalk Bay – my favourite village in Cape Town

I love Kalk Bay for so many reasons, that I return and return and return to explore, eat and play.  Kalk Bay is quirky, arty, grungy at times, always eccentric and quite simply a fun place to ramble around, to sit and drink coffee, to chat to the locals, to people watch and to buy and eat the freshest fish in Cape Town.   The focal point of the village is the local fishing harbour.  This is the last community harbour in Cape Town where you can actually buy fish straight off the boats – but be warned you must bring your own packaging (something my city slicker self did not think of the first time!! You can picture my expression when he tried to hand me the fish, yes just the fish – how was I going to get it into the car!).   A good place to start your walk is around the fishing harbour.  Here the bright coloured boats sway gently in the water, seals swim around and you can head off for a walk on the jetty.  This is especially fun on a weekend as Cape Town families head down to the harbour with their kids to fish off the jetty – so mind out for flying hooks.   Eating options abound in the Harbour – and will suit all levels of holiday budgets.  Kalky’s is the oldest restaurant in the harbour – it is a simple fish & chip shop that attracts everyone from all walks of life – as such it is fascinating for people watching.  On the weekend they sometimes have a really nice Marimba band.  Sitting at the outside tables your view sweeps over the harbour and into the village area.  There is something magical about this spot.  In the main building on the other side of the harbour is a whole set of restaurants all owned by the same person (strangely enough I have no idea who he is – even though I spend a lot of time there!)  The building is home to:

  • a funky little fish & chip shop – stop for the most delicious calamari you will have every eaten
  • Live Bait – picture a Mediteranean style restaurant complete with mosaics, white interiors and sweeping views of the harbour and cafe del mar type of music and you have a spot worth spending the afternoon.  The prices are moderate and it offers good value for money.  I would highly recommend the fresh fish – it comes straight from the harbour and you cannot get fresher in Cape Town.

The Polana – it was a very clever strategy of the owner to include this as part of the mix, yes,  the Polana is a restaurant – but it is mainly focused on being  a glamourous bar where you can sit right next to the breaking waves of the ocean on very comfortable leather sofas. As such he captures most people who come to the harbour – those on a budget will eat at his fish & chip shop and then head into Polana for drinks.  There is live music here on a Sunday.  Open nights and weekends.  I would highly recommend this spot for a cocktail and wave watching!

Harbour House Restaurant: This is without doubt the most pricey out of the restaurant offerings – but there is something very special about spending a long long afternoon having an extended lunch at this spot.  They have the winning combination of the best setting being upstairs, the view feels endless over the ocean from one side and over the harbour from the other.  Picture sitting watching the waves crash below you, sipping champagne at a table with a thick beautiful table cloth draped to the floor,  gorgeous decor and some of the best fish dishes you will have ever eaten……….it is simply perfection!  This is one of my favourite restaurants in Cape Town and should be added to the list of “Must do’s” by anyone who comes to Cape Town.

From the harbour take a stroll along the main road of Kalk Bay.  The village is home to an “arty/creative” set of people and the shops reflect this, as do the clientele!  You will find an eclectic set of art shops, bric a brac, interesting clothing stores and some more interesting restaurants and bakeries.   For foreigners I would highly recommend two shops: Kalk Bay Modern and Artvark.   Both of these stores reflect interesting arts and crafts sourced from locals.  Kalk Bay Modern is in the first building you will come across as you head into the village from the harbour.  It is upstairs, so look for the staircase just past the bottle store. Artvark you will find a couple of blocks down on the left hand side, just past the church that has been turned into a community theatre.   In the same building as Kalk Bay Modern, you will find my favourite restaurant in Cape Town - The Olympia Cafe and Bakery.  This restaurant started life as bakery – they had space at the front and so decided to buy some chairs and tables from some of the guys selling “antiques/bric a brac” along the main road.  They simply placed a gas stove behind the front counter where they were selling their breads and opened up for business.  Soon it was open 7 days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner.  This spot is quirky, busy, shabby, slightly dirty, has waiters with lots of attitude who have been there forever and view it as their second home, great food, a menu that changes daily, fresh fish delivered still flapping by the local fishermen (you literally hear a bang and it is then added to the menu!) and is filled with interesting creative people who make it great for people watching.  I love it!  There are lots of quirks with it – note that there is no booking allowed, there is a board as you enter the door – if there is no space, add your name to the list – if you are not on the list – you will never get a table.  This is an insider tip – so do not tell others in front of the queue you are in! Certain favourite dishes appear on the menu quite regularly – they are famous for their tuna, their mussels and their seafood pasta.  Another tip is to at least make sure you have a cappuccino at Olympia – they are also my favourite spots for coffee.  Over time the restaurant became too chaotic to try and sell bread and pastries inside – as such they have opened a little bakery outlet around the back – make sure you stop to buy bread – they have the best ciabatta bread in Cape Town.   After a coffee, pastry or lunch, keep walking down the main drag and enjoy the eclectic stores along the way. A short distance further on you will come across the Cape to Cuba Restaurant and Che Bar.  This is a fantastically creative spot stuffed with interesting furniture that is all for sale – including the chandeliers above your table.  They seem to go up and down in terms of the quality of their food – however their setting right on the rail way line with a view of the harbour and the great interiors, make it a wonderful spot to gather for a long afternoon of lunch & drinks with your friends.  The Che Bar on the property is really fun – great decor as well as having a pseudo beach bar setting outside.  A little further down you will also pass another lovely little bakery and cafe called Tribeca Bakery which is well worth popping into as well.  As you pass the Kalk Bay train station, you will see a sign next to the sub-way which says THE BRASS BELL.  The Brass Bell is a favourite watering spot that has been there for at least 20 years (as a student we frequented this bar – so it is definitely over 20 years old!).  The Brass Bell is right on the ocean and as such the setting has always drawn the crowds from the area and the city for its setting.  

A new favourite is a little spot called Boulangerie – it is just off the main road in Rosemead Avenue- which is behind the store Artvark.   They make exquisite artisenal breads (as seen in my hands) and their menu also looks really yummy.   So…….plan on lots of visits to Kalk Bay if you have the time!  

I leave you with a few more pictures below to set the mood for a visit to Kalk Bay.



 

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Druk My Niet – an award winning wine estate in the making!

Yesterday, on a cold Cape rainy winters day, Lesley Cox and I headed through to meet the winemaker, Abraham, from Druk My Niet for a wine tasting.   The drive there was wonderfully scenic, however the signage to Druk My Niet was a little lacking and we found ourselves a little lost.  Abraham got a couple of phone calls from us and patiently guided us to his cellar.   The estate is set with a dramatic mountainous backdrop and is dotted with Cape Dutch style houses.  The view of the autumn vines as we arrived was quite simply gorgeous.  This felt a little like a country adventure as it is well off the tourist beaten track.  It is well worth the journey as the wines turned out to be excellent, the wine maker is passionate and talented, and the setting fantastic.

The estate dates back to 1682 when it was granted to the French Huguenot Francois du Toit.  It was bought in 2002 by the Kirchners (a retired German Banker), and invested in  at a later stage by their friends the Stein’s who currently reside in the UK.

Abraham, the winemaker, was enticed to join by the challenge of being offered control of the viticultural side, as well as the winemaking – hence the opportunity to control all aspects of his wines.  At the time he was rather disillusioned by the world of wine making and was considering heading out of the industry, despite having spent years building up his experience in the industry.  He studied wine making at Stellenbosch university, worked for Neil Ellis and various others,  spent time working at overseas wineries and has now settled into his new challenge.  He is passionate about increasing his wine making knowledge and as such is off to Tuscany now to work on one of their top vineyards for harvest.  Abraham believes that the best route to wine making is minimum intervention combined with having high quality fruit, as well as rigorous hand sorting to ensure only the best grapes are used.  He started by pulling out the sauvignon blanc on the estate (the area is too hot for the white varietals) and is aiming to produce high quality red blends.  Abraham is farming in a green friendly way.  He follows the guidelines of biodynamic farming (farming in tune to the phases of the moon), however he does not believe in using too much copper sulphate as he feels that continual use will lead to a build up of heavy metals in the soil.

Currently the estate has an entry level range called Mapoggo, followed by the DRUK MY NIET RANGE which includes an excellent Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon (I enjoyed all three – particularly the Malbec!).  Both Leslie and I were concerned about the overseas market not being able to pronounce the brand name and as such this being a drawback for building brand equity in the overseas market.   The labels on the Druk My Niet bottles will feature different art works each year.  This release they feature the artwork of Rene Twigge.  They have bought her beautiful paintings and they can be seen in the tasting room.  The art is bright and vibrant and the labels really “pop” out at you.  They were a great choice!

The interesting development is that they are getting ready to release super premium red blends.  Interestingly enough – these labels will not have DRUK MY NIET on the front label, instead they will feature a single easy brand name, which will make it easy to remember.  The labels are simple and beautifully designed.  They look to me like the build up of Icon brands.   I cannot wait to taste them – if the single varietal wines are anything to go by – these are going to be traffic stoppers!!   Soon to be released in November 2011:

INVICTUS:  A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc

T3: A very interesting blend of Tannat, Tempranillo, Tinta Amarela

(Sales price likely to be around R200 per bottle).

I would highly recommend including Druk my Niet into any trip to the Paarl wine region. I have a feeling that the new red blends are going to make their mark for Abraham and will reflect his talent as a wine maker.

The tasting experience at Druk my Niet is by appointment only.  To book contact:

Abraham De Klerk
Wine Maker & ManagerTel. +27 218682393
Address: Bodal Road, Daljosafat, Paarl                                                                                                                                           e-mail: abraham@DMNwines.co.za
                                                                                          www.DMNwines.co.za

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Tashas – an overnight hit in Constantia, Cape Town

Ever since it opened, the Constantia crowd have been queuing outside the new Tashas restaurant at the Contantia Shopping Mall.  They accept no bookings – so it is simply a matter of arriving and waiting…..and wait you will at most times of the day!  Tashas is a Joburg chain that is set to fill a gap in the restaurant market in Cape Town.   To me four things stand out with Tashas in Cape Town:

  1. For years Johannesburg has offered large delicious salads on their menus – it was my staple for meals out when I lived there. Cape Town lacks creativity in salads and does not offer large delicious salads that make a great meal.
  2. Tashas does not have the normal Cape Town times for breakfast and lunch – with Tashas you can order anything at anytime.

3.  They open at 7am to cater for the working crowd – most of Cape Town’s cafes open at 08h30 – crazy in a city when people actually have to be at work by then!

4.  They have slick friendly service – the owner of Tashas Cape Town owns a number of Primi Piattis in Joburg.  His Cape Town staff were sent up to Joburg for training.  Expect the most attentive service you have ever had in Cape Town!

The owner of Tashas Constantia has secured the rights to open a Tashas in Cavendish and the Waterfront.  The formula for Tashas is that each restaurant has its own decor stamp – the consistency is in the focus on fresh creative cafe cuisine and a relaxed cafe atmosphere.  They over deliver on quality and offer great value for money.  This is a spot that you will return to over and over once you have discovered it.  We have been three times now and would highly recommend sharing a couple of dishes between you – this way you get to taste a variety of flavours.   I would highly recommend this for a relaxed lunch with friends – but make sure you get there early!  Also, I predict that all three branches (once the new venues open) will leave their mark on Cape Town and  will all be a run away success.

Contact details: Tel  021 794 5449 (no bookings accepted though!)  www.tashas.co.za

Physical address: Constantia Village, Constantia Main Road & Spaanschemat River Road, Constantia, Cape Town

Monday to Saturday: 7:00am – 6:00pm, Sunday and Public Holidays: 8:00am – 4:00pm

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MIDDELVLEI BOERE BRAAI (Farmer BBQ) AND PINOTAGE

A great addition to the Stellenbosch winelands is the opportunity for you to experience a traditional South African Braai at Middelvlei Wine Estate.  Braaing (BBQing) is a national passtime in South Africa during summer.  On any summer’s night this is our standard way of entertaining with friends.  In South Africa the most standard Braai always includes red meat – in fact it can include steak, chops, Boerewors (Farmer sausage), chicken (often served as a sosatie – like a kebab), fish, Butternut wrapped in foil in the coals, potatoe done the same way.  It all depends on what everyone brings – most braai’s are what we call “Bring and Braai” – so everyone brings some meat along and it is all combined.  As such you usually end up with a mountain of meat and the host is left with enough left overs to last days!  A couple of rules apply to the South African Braai – firstly red wine is usually consumed – and the first choice is our favourite varietal pinotage (this is a varietal that was developed in our territory, and is still largely only found in South Africa).  Secondly – it is the men’s job to make the braai and to braai the meat.  This is a bonding opportunity for the boys who catch up on sport stories, business  etc and is usually done over a few beers – with the wine reserved for the meal!  The women are generally in the kitchen preparing the salads to accompany the meat, as well as items such as garlic bread and whatever else is planned.  It is a great opportunity for the girls to catch up too as a result!

As this is part of home entertainment, it is hard for foreigners to access our favourite passtime – and that is why I am so excited about the fact that Middelvlei are now offering a traditional braai every Saturday and Sunday lunch (regardless of the weather as the braai is covered and they have a lovely indoor seating area). You would think that this would have appealed mainly to those visiting the country – but obviously word has not spread among the foreigners yet.  Instead they are getting the likes of me who lives in an apartment and feels chronically deprived by not being able to have my weekly “Braai” fix.  In addition they are appealing to local families – the farm is the perfect spot to allow the kids to just run wild – which is great as the adults can relax and chat.  The Mombergs have a troop of kids and as such the farm is set up for great fun for the kids – as well as endless space, they have an assortment of fun animals for the kids to watch – pot belly pigs, geese, huge tortoises, chickens and I believe they even have some Wallabies!  In the late afternoon they bring a cart with a donkey and take the kids off on the trailer to explore the farm!  I found it interesting that despite the fairly large number of kids that come along, there is very little noise as the kids disperse everywhere!

The location is simple and lovely – they have added tables outside their little wine tasting room – you are free to move your table or ask for a blanket to lie on the grass – the main thing is to just relax.  Ben Momberg (The Momberg family own the estate) makes a charming host and you will find either him or his wife their to personally welcome you to the estate. Ben makes sure that you feel completely at home. Make sure you check out his wall of fame near the counter – here you will find Ben pictured with many former Ms South Africa’s and even a Ms Universe – it is worth asking him the story to find out how he managed to obtain such a large collection!

The meal served is a wonderful reflection of a traditional South African Braai.  I loved my meals there both times that I went.  Once a month they are now doing a Seafood BBQ – so check which one they have on when you book.   Naturally a seafood BBQ is fairly common down in the Cape due to our location next to the ocean.  The seafood BBQ even includes some lobster (called Crayfish in South Africa).   Note that a Braai is not a quick experience – so plan to settle in here and relax for the afternoon.  Middelvlei make a wonderful pinotage, as well as a delicious cabernet sauvignon.  For white drinkers their is an unwooded chardonnay (note that this is predominantly a red wine region).

MIDDELVLEI BOEREBRAAI MENU (Every Saturday & Sunday)

Cost: R125 per person

Potbrood (pot bread) served with Smoked Snoek Pate and Homemade Fruit Preserve

*

Boerewors (traditional Afrikaans Farmer Sausage)

Lamb Loin Chop

Honey & Mustard Chicken Sosatie

Braaibroodjie (BBQed Bread)

Pampoenkoekies (traditional Pumpkin Fritters)

Corn on the Cob

Green Salad

*

Dessert - Malva pudding & Ice cream (Additional R20)

Phone +27 21 883-2565
Fax +27 21 883-9546
eMail info@middelvlei.co.za
URL www.middelvlei.co.za
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A slice of Heaven-on-Earth in Hermanus

I don’t seem to find enough time to blog – life just seems to get so busy and things just pile up!  So now, we have a big pile to work through and share.  This series of blogs is going to share some new places I have found as well as some of my favourite places and experiences in the Cape Town and the Cape Winelands.  As always – I want this website to be a place where fellow foodies and wino’s can discover the gems we have and as such not waste a second on a mediocre experience while visiting us.

THE HEMEL-EN-AARDE WINE VALLEY:

The name of this valley means Heaven-on-Earth ……and it is a really appropriate name! This valley is famous locally for being the best region for pinot noir and chardonnay. Recently it added to the accolades by winning the trophy for the best Merlot in the country – which represents a complete breakaway from what the others are doing in the valley by new kid on the block – Creation winery.

The timing for this blog is great as Whale season is approaching us in Hermanus.  The little town of Hermanus in the Western Cape offers the best land based Whale watching in the country from July to the end of December.   Hermanus is a quaint town that boasts long cliff walks (where you can watch the whales), cute guesthouses, luxury experiences such as staying at the Birkenhead or The Marine, quaint restaurants and a beachside holiday.  Most importantly it boasts a wonderful wine ramble right on its doorstep – the Hemel-en-Aarde valley.  Whale watching requires refreshment of the tastebuds inbetween viewing from the cliffs.  So once you have had your fill of watching whales, head off to the valley.  The list of wine estates below represents some of my favourites:

HAMILTON RUSSELL: 

HAMILTON RUSSELL specialize in only two wines: chardonnay & pinot noir.  Both are consistently good and they win many awards each year.  The tasting room on the farm is a quaint little thatch cottage. Tastings are done in large beautiful glasses.  The setting is on a small lake and they have now added some outside furniture which adds to the experience of relaxation.  The lady in the tasting room is fairly knowledgeable – but will not be able to answer any complex questions.                          www.hamiltonrussellvineyards.com

BOUCHARD FINLAYSON -

This is always a lovely spot to stop at.  They have a passionate lady who runs the tasting room and she is always warm, welcoming and knowledgeable. The tasting room is slightly old worldish and has a musty cellar feel – I like it a lot – it feels real and down to earth.  The range of wines do not disappoint, in fact they cannot fail to impress!  This estate is home to the very talented winemaker Peter Finlayson.  The Finlayson family have left their mark on the South African wine industry over the years and I think they were born with wine in their blood!   Make sure you pop into this estate to taste the pinot noir. www.bouchardfinlayson.co.za

Not far down the road you find Newton Johnson on the same side of the road as Bouchard Finlayson.

NEWTON-JOHNSON

represents 100% passion – they were newer then the big boys above and as such have had to fight to gain a reputation for great wine.  The results are great.  This is a wonderful estate to visit.  The architecture is modern, the view from the top of the mountain is jaw dropping and they are home to a wonderful little restaurant called Heaven. It is well worth booking for lunch at Heaven – to me it represents fresh country cuisine.  The dishes are simple and delicious.  The view from this spot is fantastic. If you are madly wild about wine and have a few hours to spend at Newton-Johnson, make an appointment to meet up with the son and winemaker Gordon Newton-Johnson. He is 150% passion and will have you hopping from barrel to barrel for wine tastings. His chardonnay and pinot noir are fantastic and his excitement about them is infectious! www.newtonjohnson.com

NOTE – all three of the above wineries are open Mon – Friday and only on Saturday morning.  I find this mind-boggling.  Hermanus is a weekend spot that the Cape Town people head to – as such the population swells on the weekend.  From a wine estate perspective, your cheapest sale is direct from the estate.  The relationship that the client forms from visiting the estate is also the reason for having tasting rooms – it is an extension of your marketing and extension of your brand.  As such, create a relationship with me and I will be your client for many years.  As such the fact that they are not open all weekend is a real slip in terms of marketing, in my opinion!  The reason I mention this is that if you plan to visit this valley – take note that if you are there on the weekend, you need to set off early on Saturday! Both Ataraxia and Creation are open on a Sunday for wine tastings.

LA VIERGE – As you drive past Newton Johnson, you will come across La Vierge on your left hand side.  They have a champagne bar and a wonderful little restaurant with sweeping views over the valley – this is always a nice idea for lunch.  Beware however that it is seldom warm enough to sit outside – somehow there is always a cool breeze here.  I just love the idea of spending an afternoon drinking champagne on their terrace with the view!  Perhaps it is just me and each time I go it is slightly chilly!  The Europeans quite justifiably think of us locals as wimps!   We definitely have a tendency to bundle up when the temperature drops below 20 degrees Celsius!   www.lavierge.co.za

MOGGS COUNTRY COOKHOUSE RESTAURANT- After La Vierge it is downhill from here – quite literally you hit a dust road – which is not in too shabby a condition to start with.  You will then pass Moggs Country Cookhouse.  This is a institution that the locals book well in advance to come and enjoy on weekends.  In fact – in summer, it is not even worth stopping to ask if they have space for you for lunch unless you have booked – so make sure you put the booking in well in advance if you know you are going to be in the area for the weekend!  Open Wed – Sunday for lunch only.  Note that the menu changes each week with a choice of three items for each course based on what is fresh.  http://moggscookhouse.com/

ATARAXIA – half the fun is trying to find this wine estate!  Continue on the dust road after Moggs and if you blink, you will miss the sign for Ataraxia on the fence on the left hand side.  If you are seeing what looks like a quaint white chapel on a hill on the left hand side, it means you missed the entrance!  The tasting room looks just like a little chapel.  It even includes a bell tower that you are welcome to ring.  The interior is cozy with large “poofy” couches and modern art on the walls of a local Hermanus artist.  The wine is spectacular and it is well worth heading down the bad road to get here!  This is the venture of the passionate Kevin Grant, who was the former winemaker at Hamilton Russell Estate.  He is exceptionally talented at Chardonnay and I also really enjoyed his Serenity – a mystery red blend!  Seriously – they won’t tell you what is in it!  It has a deep colour and is extremely complex and smooth – so head there to try and guess what is in it!  You will never know if you were right though!  Closed on Mondays (ie open Saturday and Sunday – which is impressive in this valley!!!) www.ataraxiawines.co.za

CREATION WINES – so, you head back onto the dirt road and just when you think there cannot be anything else, you turn off to Creation Wines on the left.  It has an impressive entrance that is hard to miss.  The newest kids on the block are making their mark.  It is the joint venture of two Swiss Winemaking friends (JC Martin and the talented Christoph Kaser).  JC is married to Carolyn from the famous Finlayson winemaking family.  As such it was only natural that her uncle from Bouchard Finlayson would have taken them for a little drive to see this property that he had his eye on.  Carolyn is very hands on in terms of the tasting room and restaurant and you are likely to meet her when visiting the estate.
This year, with their very young Merlot vines, they won by a horse’s hair margin, the award for the best Merlot in the country.  I am in love with their red blends, their beautiful tasting room, their fantastic food and wine pairing (literally the best tasting experience I have had in the country at a winery), their setting, their view, their training of their staff, their passion………..the full package is well worth the trip!! They are literally in the middle of nowhere and the word has spread about the experience offered on the estate.  The result if being reflected on their bottom line with substantial sales happening from the estate.  Tip: If you are visiting during the week – make sure to make an appointment with the assistant winemaker Kevin Baatjies for a cellar tour.  Kevin was a fisherman, then he became a handy man and through the owners of Creation he has learnt to become a wine maker.  He has definitely found his groove in life and clearly loves what he does.  Spending time with him in the cellar was an absolute treat.  Here you get to not only see the process but do barrel tastings with Kevin – I cannot recommend the experience highly enough!  www.creationwines.com

A reminder to remember to check out a few whales between wine tastings!  I love walking the Cliffs in Hermanus and simply just watching the whales.   My dream spot to stay and watch them would be Birkenhead House – this is located just above the water and offers over the top decoration, fantastic friendly service, deck chairs with a view where you could just relax and make sure your champers is always toped up,  top chefs in the kitchen and simply the most relaxing ambiance.   One day I will check in there for a week, and only leave the property for wine tastings in the area!

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Kalahari Gourmet Tour – Nov 2011 and May 2012

A Cordon Bleu Safari like no other!

Two friends, and residents of Franschhoek, wishing to share their passion for good food, good wine and the African bush, have combined their expertise for your pleasure.

Reuben Riffel – the South African celebrity chef-extraordinaire, and Frank McCourt – the highly respected Southern African wildlife authority, have teamed up to offer this exclusive safari in the remarkable setting of the Kalahari Desert.

Two separate safari opportunities exist in November 2011 & May 2012, hosted by Reuben & Frank, and will be available only through WIDE AFRICA SAFARIS. This is an exclusive opportunity for 4 people (2 couples) who want to enjoy world class cuisine and the very best of South African wines in one of the most spectacular settings – the Kalahari Desert.

For more information – see the attached document.  If I could afford it – I would be there – it is the ultimate foodie adventure in Africa.

kalahari gourmet safari

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Get your hands dirty and come and experience African Cooking in Cape Town

Many years ago I was on a township educational tour in Langa.  Out of the side of my eye I spotted a sign that said Eziko Cooking & Catering School.  I quickly jotted down the number and added it to my “to do” list to go and explore.  Being a typical white South African it took me a long time to set up the meeting as I was scared to drive into a “township” on my own.  How sad is the legacy of our past that until the age of 19 I had never ever been into a township, and even worse in my early 30′s I had still never ventured in on my own.  Finally I called them and set up a meeting with the owner Victor, and the head chef Lindy.   We discussed the idea of setting up a tour where people could come and visit the school and restaurant and learn to cook African cuisine.  Lindy offered to include the preparing and cooking of Tripe – a big local delicacy.  Somehow, I did not think that this would be a hit with visitors – so tripe was vetoed!  Agreed on would be dishes that would reflect what more then 70% of our population eat on a daily basis: Pap, Samp & Beans, a meat stew, chakalaka, a veg dish of mixed cabbage/spinach and more recently on request a “smiley!”  African cuisine is not viewed as “gourmet” and as such is not easy to find on a visit to South Africa.  It is very much a “home” cuisine.  How frustrating for a foodie who wishes to experience what people eat in a country, to not be able to try it very easily!

So what are the main dishes that Black South Africans eat? 

The staple diet of our people is maize. For the vast majority of tribes, the main ingredient in all meals is what we call Mielie Meal. This is quite simply dried corn that has been ground down to a fine powder (similar to Polenta – but white). For breakfast, most people would cook it into a porridge that is so stiff that it eventually starts crumbling – this is called krummel pap (this literally means crumbly pap). This is usually eaten with sour milk and sugar. For lunch and dinner people eat “pap”. This is a fairly thick porridge and it forms the starch base much as rice or pasta would in Western cuisine. The exception to this are the Xhosa people (from the Eastern Cape), they eat samp. Samp is quite simply the dried corn. Often the samp is combined with dried beans for additional protein. In the rural areas, ladies will cook the samp in a black pot over the fire. It takes many many hours to cook – thank heavens for Western cooking techniques – now it only takes about 3 hours on a gas stove to prepare! Most of the black people in Cape Town are originally from the Eastern Cape and have moved down here over the last 100 years. As such a lot of samp is eaten in Cape Town. The consistent dietary theme across all of our tribes is the love of meat – NYAMA! A meal is not considered a meal without meat. As such meat or a meat stew is served with lunch and dinner if you can afford it. In the township areas one of the main take away dishes is meat from BBQ’s (called BRAAI’S in South Africa) on the pavements. People will stop and buy a piece of chicken or a lamb chop or a sheep’s head. Yes, you read correctly. Sheep’s heads are considered a delicacy by the Xhosa people and are called “Smileys”. The name comes from the fact that when you cook the sheep’s head, you will know it is ready when the lips curl upwards – it smiles at you!!! Chakalaka is a spicy vegetable relish that is often served with the pap/samp and meat stew. There are many variations of this recipe – often it uses up the left over vegetables you have in the house and is usually quite fiery!

We have now been running the cooking tours to Langa for about 6 years.  It is never going to be a big seller as people seem to be averse to the word “cooking” being in a tour description.  The visit here is however so much more then a cooking experience!  Here you have an opportunity to meet local people, to chat about their lives, the project they are involved in (teaching kids basic cooking skills to get jobs), their culture, their history and their hopes for the future.  Too many tours just enter this region to be voyeuristic and to see what it is like, what a waste to not stop and meet our very beautiful and passionate people while you are here.

The classes are headed up by Lindy – she is a legend!  She loves the classes and loves to meet people from all over the world.  Lindy is now retired from her main job as head chef and as such it is a special treat to her too to come in for the classes.  She was part of the original meeting to discuss setting it up and as such it is as much her baby as it is mine.  Lindy is a wealth of knowledge and represents a very passionate energy in the kitchen.  Watch out, there is no slacking on the job as Lindy puts you through your paces in her kitchen, you are here to work!  Note that no cooking experience is needed to come and visit them – Lindy will put you through your paces.  This works for everyone of all ages and is a great one for kids and families.

 To find out more about the cooking classes, visit my Cape Cooking Classes section on the website or just click here. 

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Foodie escapes for the winter in South Africa

A few interesting foodie escapes for winter:

  1. AFRICAN RELISH COOKING SCHOOL IN PRINCE ALBERT:  This is a completely foodie town, so it is so fitting that a foodie school should have opened here.  I have put this on top of the list for a reason – it is an absolute gourmet treat to be in this town, not to mention being able to combine it with classes from interesting and top chefs, as well as inspired theme courses.  Check out the African Relish website on www.africanrelish.com  June offers: Comfort food cooking, baking and an Eastern food twist.   So, escape to some heat this winter and go and chomp on Price Albert Olives, the greatest ham in the country, olive oils and great restaurants.
  2. Rusthof Guesthouse in Franschhoek is now home to the fantastic Ryan’s Kitchen Restaurant.  This little gem boasts on open plan kitchen in an intimate setting where you can watch the chef’s every move.  As a winter special Rusthof is offering the following for free with all double bookings (min stay 2 nights):  A free 3 course dinner at Ryan’s kitchen, a free bottle of wine on arrival, free laundry, free wi-fi and a free upgrade – subject to availability.  For more details on Rusthof visit http://www.rusthof.com
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A Cooking School in the Langa Township in Cape Town – The Eziko Cooking and Catering School

The Eziko Cooking and Catering School, located in the heart of Langa Township just 15kms from the centre of Cape Town, was established in 1996 by a former Langa High School teacher, Victor Mguqulwa. His mission is to address the unemployment that strikes the township communities. While teaching at the local school Victor noticed that there was a high interest in the cooking programmes and competitions at the school. He realized that by providing youngsters with cooking skills they would be able to find employment and create their own businesses in the future. Safmarine provided the initial shipping containers that were used to build the school and also donated further shipping containers to build the restaurant for Eziko. An initial idea led to the creation of a school that has now been operating for more then ten years.

Victors’ vision is that the community can only develop by making people claim responsibility for their problems and their future. By taking the approach that you must ‘teach people how to fish rather than catching the fish for them’, Eziko is dedicated to provide people with life and career-oriented skills in cooking and catering and “empower” them to find employment so they can provide for themselves and their families.

Students are carefully selected and begin their training at the Eziko Cooking and Catering Training Centre where they gain some basic experience in the Eziko Restaurant. They are then placed in one of the sponsoring catering establishments for an intensive 6-month placement.

The Eziko approach is to teach “self reliance”, which results in our students learning how to create a sustainable future for themselves and their families. To do this, we complement the formal education now available in most townships by providing entry-level skills training and employment placement in the restaurant /hospitality industry.

The School has ongoing funding requirements.  This has proved very stressful over the recent recession period.  This is due to the fact that the self generated funding for the school, which came from running a restaurant on the property that offers African cuisine to the locals and to visiting tourists, dried up.  The school also generated money from running a catering business out of the school and restaurant.  This also slowed to a trickle.   Should you be a “foodie” visiting the Cape, the school has an ongoing need for inspirational cooking literature, cooking equipment, chefs that can come and do guest lectures, wine makers to train the kids in the basics, kitchen equipment, computers etc!   The great news for this year is that Pick n’ Pay has come on board and has granted the Eziko School R100 000 for ingredients.  This is a substantial donation and should last us at least two years for our grocery and fresh produce requirements!  Thank you Pick n’ Pay!

Any small contribution leaves a mark and an impact.  Many thanks to our recent contributors!

AFRICAN CUISINE COOKING CLASSES: Some years ago I met up with Victor and discussed the idea of  bringing foodies into the school/restaurant to learn how to cook African cuisine.  Through visiting the school people would gain access to the main cuisine of our country that is eaten by around 70% of the population.  The African cuisine is however a “home” cuisine and as such is not easily accessible to the everyday person who visits our country.  As a committed foodie, I know that the first thing I wish to do when I visit a country is to try and local cuisine. How frustrating for find that if you visit South Africa, it is hard to access.  As such I discussed with Victor the opportunity of bringing people to cook the local cuisine.  Through visiting the school, the visitors would leave a “mark” as the proceeds would contribute towards the main cooking school and people would be able to see a working upliftment project as well as to interact with some of the Langa locals who work on the project.  My cooking classes have now been running for a couple of years at the school – and yes it has contributed a little – but cooking is definitely a niche product and I don’t think we will ever have large numbers visiting!  I will shortly write up a blog about the experience of coming to cook in the Langa Township in Cape Town.

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